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I resawed some tulip wood yesterday for some ukes & the sides have some cracks in them and I'm wondering about gluing the cracks before I bend on the pipe, I guess with some kind of epoxy?
Anyone done this kind of thing?
MM

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Mike McNerney

Have not done Tulip wood but certainly repaired tight cracks in other woods before bending. CA is your friend for doing this type of thing.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

As Tom mentioned CA works OK for fine cracks, for sure in dark woods like Rosewood and Walnut. I think I'd pass on working Tulip wood that I know is defective -- I can understand salvaging Brazilian Rosewood.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

agree with Ken start with good stuff .

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

"I think I'd pass on working Tulip wood that I know is defective -- I can understand salvaging Brazilian Rosewood."

Tulipwood - Dalbergia Frutescens ? It may not be BRW, but it's still a pretty nice wood.

Most epoxies don't take the heat too well. I would be inclined to use hide glue. Even if it failed part way through the bend, using bending straps you could probably finish bending and reglue without a lot of clean up. Good quality hide glue is almost colorless and may show less than some others.

I have a similar problem with checked maple, except, I will bend it on a mold. What temperature should I stay below?

Bob

I have some wenge sides that have cracked. I glued the cracks with fish glue. From whta others have said, I can expect some problems?

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Under Compensated Nut!

OK I see the common thread here but, I'm still going to try it. This piece of tulip is 40 years old.
I'll start with pva & if that doesn't work I'll try one of the JB weld products & reinforce on the inside.
I'll try to send some pics in a week.
Thanks all

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Mike McNerney

Try titebond 2 or 3. They have worked well for me. Tulipwood not to be confused with poplar is a beautiful and expensive Dalbergia. I would definitely try it

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I think titebond 3 might be the ticket for this setch...in general I hate the stuff, as it doesn't really harden until it is subjected to a temperature of around 200*...seeing as how you will be pushing it above that to bend it, it might be perfect for this issue...

Titebond or CA, I would stay away from epoxy until after the bending is done. Most epoxies turn loose at 180-200 degrees. If that happens it would be a real mess.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I have recommended thin CA left overnight but fish glue sounds recoverable the second time around. This side has yet to be thicknessed so staining will likely be reduced.
Titebond two and three are urethane glues so expect a thin yellow line.
Good luck.

Bob

Pretty sure they are both PVA -- they do handle heat and water better than the Original formula

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

I thought it was a Thin Red Line, oh wait, that was different

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

T3 dries dark...not yellow